The long dusty climb suddenly came to a halt as we convinced our driver that we needed to stop and ask directions. We knew the temple we wanted to reach was Osel Ling Monastery, and from a distance we could see it up on the mountain top. But now that we were at the base of the mountains, we could not tell which one was the one we should climb. The dust cleared and the view revealed a large monastery. We get out and walk in only to discover it is not a monastery ... it is a nunnery. After some time, our driver figures out that Osel Ling is not in Situ Paila, it is the next one over.
We get back in the car and reverse our direction. We bump down roads that no car was meant to be on. Just cows, oxen and other pack animals. Reaching civilization again, we begin to climb. The road turns to dirt and dust again, severe drop-offs appearing on the right side. Scott and I debate if its is safe enough to continue, wondering if the angle of incline will win over the tiny engine of our taxi. We decide to continue and settle in.
After dangerous switchbacks and difficult inclines, we finally reach the top. And it is stunning. We get out of the car at the front of the monastery and two nuns and a monk come to greet us. Now this is unusual, as monks and nuns normally live separately. We say we are from the USA and hope to visit the temple and meditate. They invite us into the complex, giving us a brief tour of the grounds. As we take our tour, the energy of the place is palpable. We are in a wondrous environment and the call to meditate is strong.
But as the conversation progresses we find out that the monks are away in Bodhgaya, preparing for the teachings. Those who are here are taking their turn at watching the monastery so that no thieves or bandits enter the place. The one who has the key to the temple is away - in Boudha where we started our journey.
We are taken to the Khenpo's room and fed candied sweet potato and milk coffee. The sun begins to set, and both Scott and I contemplate the coffee for a moment, knowing that drinking it may put us over our caffeine limit. But honoring the hospitality wins out in such a soft and welcoming space, so we both settle in on the cushions and sip our warm beverages.
We learn that Ani Tsering and Ani Tenzin are from Lhadak, but have lived in Taiwan studying the Dharma and have recently come to Osel Ling for three months of study. Their studies are now complete, and they plan to stay the winter before returning to Ladhak. Why? Because it is not possible to get to Lhadak in the winter time.
Ani Tsering is more talkative, probably because she knows English just a bit more than the others. She learns Scott is a Yoga teacher and is studying with Mingyur RInpoche. And she also inquires what it is like to be a nun in the West.
I share that it is difficult because we do not belong to any culture -- not the traditional Tibetan Buddhist Monastery, not the Western lay culture, but somewhere in between. And because the way things work in the West is very different, we have to adapt to be able to live in the West, such as having a part time job to pay the bills, and wearing work clothes when we are out in the world. This brings its benefits and its challenges.
And to my surprise, Ani Tsering understood. She said she had been to a school to learn English where she wore the standard dress uniform. But she had short hair, so those who knew she was ordained thought it was strange she was not wearing ordained robes, and those who saw her in school thought it was strange that she had no hair. She did not quite fit in either world.
In Kathmandu, there is one nun who understands what it is like, and across the language and culture barriers we instantly become friends.
The sun continues to set as the conversation moves on. It is getting cold and Scott and I finally acknowledge that our opportunity to meditate has slipped away with the sun. We prepare to depart so that we can reach the bottom of the mountain safely before the sun has completely set. On the way down we discuss future retreats in Nepal and how we might request to stay at Osel Ling monastery. We feel refreshed as if we had meditated, and note that only the most holy places have the kind of energy that will cause that to happen. Sun sets as we depart from the mountain and head back to Boudha.
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